The Absaroka Range is a sub-range of the Rocky Mountains.[1] It is around 165 miles long and 75 miles wide at its widest point, and is the largest individual range in the Rocky Mountain Chain.[2] The Absaroka are the eastern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. Francs Peak, the highest point, is 13,153 ft., and there are 47 peaks above 12,000 feet.[3] Much of the range is protected by Yellowstone Park and the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Area, North Absaroka Wilderness Area, Teton Wilderness Area and the Washakie Wilderness Area. It is the fourth highest range in Wyoming. [4]
The Absaroka Mountains were formed by what is known as the Absaroka Volcanics. The volcanic rocks cover an area of 9000 square miles and in some places are up to 5000 feet thick. These volcanics were formed during the Eocene. The composition the rocks are andesitic, rhyolitics and dicritic. The Absaroka Volcanics are most highly concentrated in the Absaroka Range. [5] The range has the world’s first named National Forest, the Shoshone, established in 1891. It was established because of its proximity to Yellowstone. [6]
The Absaroka Range is named after the Absaroka Indians, the Hidatsa name for the Crow. It means “Children of the large-beaked bird.”[7] The Siouan tribes named the Crow Indians Apsaalooke. The French trappers didn’t understand the name well and changed it to Absaroka. Also the French were unfamiliar with the raven which is the bird that the name comes from. They changed it to Crow, a big black bird they were more familiar with. The first Europeans encountered by the Crow two French Canadian brothers by the name of La Vérendrve. This happened in 1743. [8] Captain William Jones of the Army Corps of Engineers was the first official explorer of the range in 1873.[9]
Prior to the Crows early cultures lived in the Absaroka Mountains. Evidence of this is found at Mummy Cave. Mummy Cave was occupied between 7280 BC and AD 1580. At the site an unusual amount of perishable materials such as hide, feathers and wood were found. The site got its name from a mummy found in the cave that they deemed “Mummy Joe.” Deposits at the cave have been catalogued up to 38 levels with most having been occupied, hinting of at least seasonal occupation dating back to the Paleo-Indian period.[10]
It first yielded stone points from around 7300BC. This period showed some layers with no habitation. But beginning at 6500 BC, evidence of occupation became continuous. The peoples of this time were big game hunters as evidenced by the points that were found in the layers from this period. Around 5630 BC new arrivals came from the Nebraska and Iowa Cultures suggesting these cultures had moved north and the previous cultures moved on to the Columbian Plateau. The hypothesis is that layers 32-(dated to 870±135)-38, were Shoshonean. The “Mummy” was recovered from layer 36 and was dated AD 770. [11]
When the Crow had settled in this area they divided into 4 groups, the Mountain Crow, River, Crow, Kicked in the Bellies and Beaver Dries its Fur. Before their migration to the area they had been semi-nomadic being part time farmers and part time hunters. Once on the Great Plains they adapted to the nomadic buffalo hunter way of life, using a dog travois to move their goods. Once the horse was introduced the Crow became horse breeders and great horsemen. Because of their equine enterprises the Crow became horse traders. [12]
About the time white settlers began to come in force to the Great Plains, a Crow boy by the name of Plenty Coups had a vision that the whites would come to dominate the whole country. The elders interpreted his vision to mean that if the Crow were to remain on any of their land that they must remain friendly to the whites. Plenty Coups became a great chief.[13]
Of course like all the Indian Nations of North America the Crow were soon overwhelmed by the white people of Plenty Coups’ vision and were forced on to reservations. The Crow Indian Reservation is in south-central Montana. It is the 5th largest reservation in the United States and is primarily in the Big Horn and Yellowstone counties, with ceded lands in Rosebud, Carbon and Treasure Counties.[14]
At present day the Absaroka Mountains show beautiful wildflowers in the spring and trout fishing can be found throughout the range. The many rivers that originate in these mountains are great for fishing, whitewater rafting, canoeing and kayaking. In the fall there is hunting for elk, moose and mule deer. The region also offers great backpacking in pristine wilderness. On the South Fork of the Shoshone River near Cody, WY is a hotspot for ice climbing and the annual South Fork Ice Climbing Festival.[15]
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